Road Trip Through Baxter State Park

I had the good fortune to spend my Saturday completing a non-hosted hike of Mt. Katahdin with The Summit Project.  If you saw my earlier blog post today - it was an amazing day to be on the mountain.  But that was just half of our weekend.  After everyone said their good-byes on Saturday night, I learned that Ranger Mike would be doing his run from Matagamon Gate through the park to Togue Gate to check in at all of the campgrounds.  I did not have any plans on Sunday, and he asked if I would like to tag along.  Well Sunday morning came, and it turned out I was not the only one that wanted to spend more time in the park.  CPT Jay Brainard and CPL Andrew Hutchins also joined us for the drive.

Mike's route would take him north from Millinocket to Matagamon Gate via Patten, so we thought it would be a great opportunity to stop in and pay SPC Dustin Harris a visit.  Here is a photo of Jay and Andrew with Dustin:

Andrew, Dustin, and Jay.

We stayed for several minutes while I shared memories of Dustin from school - some of them having taken place just a short trip down the road on the playground at Patten Grammar School.  Before long we had to say our good-byes.  It was a short visit, but it was nice to be able to share these memories.

Our drive took us from there up the Shin Pond Road, and as we drove I couldn't help but share stories of growing up in the area.  When we got above Shin Pond Village, I insisted we stop at Crommet Spring for water.  It's something I always did growing up when we were on the way in to South Branch Pond, and I could let us drive right by without stopping.

We also made a quick stop at Matagamon Wilderness on our way to the gate where Ranger Mike Martin was helping someone who was having car trouble.  Mike Martin's son, Mark, also went to school with Dustin and I.  It was nice to have the opportunity to catch up for a few minutes and share the TSP mission with him.  We introduced him to Jay and Andrew, and then I invited him to join us for a hike when he was able.  We are hoping to plan a hike of North Traveler in August if scheduling allows.

It is not far from the store to the gate, and I felt like a kid again as we drove by Horse Mountain.  I always was amazed just gazing up at the rock face.  To hike it from the trail-head in the park is not a strenuous hike - the mountain really isn't that big.  But to look at it from that side, it appears intimidating even at it's size.  Next we came by the Matagamon boat landing, and I thought of all of the trips I had taken here.  Trips to go kayaking on the lake, snowsled trips to go to camp, or even just a drive in to watch the sun come up across the lake.

We stopped at the gate house for Ranger Mike to check in, and Jay, Andrew, and I walked over to the picnic area where there was a view across the lake.  I took their picture with Grand Lake Matagamon in the background, and I thought of all of the people I have always shared stories of this area with.  Some of the stories were my own, but others come second hand (or third hand) from generations before me telling of hunting, fishing, and a passion for the Northern Maine Woods that I really think is just in my blood.

We made our way back up to the gate house, and as Ranger Mike came out the door, I noticed a large map of the park and surrounding areas.  It gave me an opportunity to chat with everyone about my family's hunting camp and the times I spent there with my Uncle Bob when I was little.  It made me think of Andrew and Jeff spending time out to camp together - which then made me want brownies for lunch.

From Matagamon Gate we continued on our way to Trout Brook Farm.  Oddly enough, this was probably the first time in ten years that I had stopped at Trout Brook Farm.  I always get so caught up in making my way through to South Branch Pond that I drive right on through without a thought.  Since Mike needed to stop here, though, that meant we all were stopping.  We took the opportunity to wander down by the brook for a short walk and grab another picture.

The black-flies were out in full force at Trout Brook, so we made it a short stopover there.  I know that I will come back later this year to explore some of the trails I have never traveled, though.

Our drive then took us past the Fowler Ponds trail-head, and I was reminded of a hike through there I had done with my aunt, Amanda, last November.  It was an uncharacteristically warm November day that has had me itching to come back and hike through from Fowler Ponds to South Branch (my Baxter Bucket List keeps growing).  We did not stop here, but I think I shared enough to make everyone want to come back someday.

Next up was a stop at my favorite place in the park.  Even though there are areas that I have not ventured through, I know that this will always feel like coming home.  South Branch Pond is where we always went during our summers growing up.  It was a race to see who could catch the first frog or salamander, who could swim out to the dock first, and then later on daring each other to jump from the cliffs at Upper South Branch and hiking North Traveler were added into the mix (although none of us had the energy to turn that into a race).  While Mike made his rounds, I took the boys down to the pond to snap a picture with the distinct landscape of South Branch in the background.

Shore of Lower South Branch Pond.

We stood for several minutes just taking in the view and listening to the waves meet the shore.  South Branch Pond is a place I always look forward to taking someone for the first time.  I'm not sure if Jay or Andrew had been here before, and they didn't say, but I get the impression that they enjoyed the chance to see some of the northern part of the park.

Walking back up to the Ranger Station, we found Ranger Mike sharing stories of The Summit Project with another Ranger, Gabe.  I introduced him to Jay and Andrew, and we shared their stories with him and talked about the previous day's hike of Katahdin.  Gabe has spent a lot of time in the park at South Branch, and he has probably heard many stories of hiking Katahdin along with experiencing his own.  But he was as attentive as someone hearing it for the first time while we talked about the TSP hike.  I like to think we all made an impression, and hopefully he will join us for a hike someday.  He was kind enough to send us on our way with some homemade blueberry scones, and we hit the road again for Nesowadnehunk Campground.

Now I was not much for fishing growing up.  I didn't like to eat fish, but I think I may have if I had learned to fly fish.  I've always loved to watch people fly fish - it seems to require a level of graceful movement that I am just not capable of.  Or at least not without putting myself in danger of getting a hook stuck in me rather than the fish.  I have heard, however, that Jeff Hutchins taught Andrew Hutchins to fish.  To this day, it seems to be something that Jeff really has a passion for.  So when we were about to pass by Nesowadnehunk Lake, Ranger Mike took a turn down towards the lake to see what we could see.  Even in the rain there was a boat out there on the lake with two people trying their hand at catching dinner.  Andrew and I got out of the truck to get a photo for Jeff.  We both thought he might to visit the lake someday.

Watching the fisherman from shore.

A short time later we met a campground ranger named Betsy.  I thought that a funny coincidence given that Andrew's step-mother is also named Betsy.  After spending a few minutes talking with her about Jay, Andrew, and The Summit Project - I really think that should the two Betsy's ever meet, they would both get along great and also be all kinds of trouble.... definitely my kind of people.

Betsy had a lot of work to do clearing out the campsites for the next wave of campers to move through, so we hit the road again to head for Kidney Pond.  Along the way, we passed the grave of the Unknown River Driver.  It's places like this that remind me that even years later, the people of Maine respect and honor their own.  It won't matter how much time passes, we will remember them...we will honor them.  We took no photos, but we silently paid our respects to the many lost working in the woods during that time.

As we reached Kidney Pond, I couldn't help but be excited when I saw the Library.  Yes, there is a library at Kidney Pond.  I didn't even give Ranger Mike a chance to say a word before I hopped out of the truck and headed for the Library.  As I wandered around the small building taking in the history contained in the two rooms - I was struck by two things.  First as I looked for a place to take Andrew's photo, I spotted a book called "Backcast: Fatherhood, Fly-fishing, and a River Journey Through the Heart of Alaska".  Jeff, I believe Andrew was thinking of you in that moment, and so was I.  He posed with the book so I could take this photo:

Visiting the Kidney Pond Library

Now I also wanted to take Jay's photo, but unfortunately I did not know Jay as well as I know Andrew.  Remembering how Ranger Mike had spoken of Jay's love for hiking and the outdoors - I spotted a book I read years ago that is about a boy achieving what everyone else deemed impossible by reaching a summit no one else dared to.  Here is his photo with "Banner in the Sky":

Jay at Kidney Pond Library.

Now - this is truly a sign.  As I sit here writing about our journey through the park, I went back to The Summit Project's page that tells Jay's story.  Jay met his wife, Emily, at a bowling alley in 2005 where she says they just instantly clicked.  Sitting next to Jay is a bowling ball, and I didn't know why this was here on the bookshelf until Ranger Mike shared the story of how the Colt Family once had a bowling alley at Kidney Pond.  Later I would use Google to find that this had been at the request of Ethel Barrymore Colt who favored bowling and insisted on that luxury even at a place as remote as Kidney Pond.  Of course this was many years ago, but the table tops in the Library were made from the lanes themselves and these two bowling balls remain .. two pieces of history sitting on the shelf where I just happened to take Jay's photo.

Taking in the view from the tables at Kidney Pond.

It turns out that Kidney Pond was not the only place in the park that was fortunate enough to have a Library.  Pulling up to the Ranger Station at Daicey Pond, I was pleasantly surprised to find another waiting for me.  This library was smaller, but every library has it's hidden treasures if you stop to look.  We found a set of antlers on the wall that I am sure has a story, although I could not tell you what that was.  We found a Smokey Bear puzzle that again made me think of Jeff and smile.  And then there was the small book left by an artist that had spent time at Daicey Pond sketching the landscapes and wild-life.  I thought it might be a book Jay would have liked, as there were many scenes of Katahdin that were most likely sketched from the campground we were now at.

Smokey Bear and cubs.

Jay loved Katahdin.

View from the Library porch.

Looking out across the pond at the wind and rain, we were all glad we had hiked Katahdin on Saturday when the weather was much more cooperative.  Being on the mountain on Sunday would have been a much tougher day.

Katahdin Stream Campground was our next stop.  This was far more familiar, as we had all been there just a month earlier as part of TSP at BSP 2015.  It's unbelievable how fast a month has passed.  It was another reminder to me just how important each day is and how much I appreciated the chance to spend my weekend in the park as part of TSP.  The ranger at Katahdin Stream was out, so Andrew and Jay did not get to meet him.  They did, however, get to take a couple of photos on the porch of the Ranger Station where so many Katahdin hikers have stopped.  This made me think of Mike Keighley who is currently thru-hiking the AT headed for Maine.  Jay will be making his way to Mike in the upcoming week to hike back to Katahdin Stream and summit Katahdin with Mike in late July.

Checking out the model of Mt. Katahdin.

The AT Hiker Registry

We had another stop at Abol Campground, but we did not have an opportunity for photos there.  Jay and Andrew did get to meet Ranger Dave, though, and we stayed for several minutes laughing more than once as Dave shared stories of life in the park.  I was sad to leave both because we were having fun and because this was our last stop before we would hit Togue Gate.  Or so I thought...until Ranger Mike says "Do you want to get a photo with a moose?"

Apparently to be a Baxter State Park Ranger, you also have to be a moose-whisperer - even if it's not really on the job application.  Either way, if I were Mike, I'd add it to his resume.  We pulled over to park when we reached Stump Pond, and sure enough we walked out to find a moose eating his dinner across the pond.  Even with the weather, we stayed to watch him for a while.

Andrew and Jay at Stump Pond.  That brown dot in the background....

Is this guy watching us.  He wouldn't come close enough to talk TSP, though.

It was starting to rain a little heavier, so we made our way back to the truck for our last stop - Togue Gate.  This was the end of the run, so we were here just a little longer than the campgrounds.  I brought Jay and Andrew in to meet David White and Brandon Theriault who were manning the gate that day.  It struck me how they seem to work so well together.  Cars would come and go, and the transition from conversation out to check cars in/out and back to our conversation was almost seamless.  Once there was a lull in their duties, I asked them if they would like to meet Andrew and Jay.  I shared the TSP mission with them, and both Ranger Mike and I were able to share a bit about Jay and Andrew.  I almost teared up when I saw the impact Andrew's story had on Brandon as he realized how close they were in age.

Brandon (left) with Andrew and David (right) with Jay.

They both asked for information on how they could get involved with The Summit Project, and I passed the information along.  I hope to see them on the trails one day excited to share a TSP story with us.

Our road trip through the park was complete, and from here the day was done for me.  I had a 5+ hour drive to go back to Massachusetts.  After such an amazing day in the park, it was difficult to turn my Jeep south on I-95.  But this was a day that would stay with me until the next time I could come back to Maine where I belong.  There were many memories made with Andrew and with Jay - memories that will stay with me forever.  It is my hope that people will wander across this blog, learn a little about Andrew and Jay, and be inspired to learn about all of our fallen loved ones to carry on the TSP mission and show that Maine Heroes Are Not Forgotten.